Ireland: Land of Rainbows

Ireland: Land of Rainbows

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Why I Love Ireland

Why I Love Ireland

I have had my fair share of car troubles over the years in Ireland. During my first trip, someone hit my rental car in a Kilkenny car park and drove away, leaving me to sort things out with Hertz. After driving over Ballaghbeama Gap last summer in County Kerry, I stalled at the intersection of [...]

Skellig Michael: An Adventure Worth Repeating

Skellig Michael: An Adventure Worth Repeating

A Dublin cabbie once told me he’d climbed the island of Skellig Michael—a jagged tooth cutting the waters off of South West Ireland—and he’s glad he did it, but he’d never do it again. I knew what he meant; I flung myself out of a perfectly good airplane once and would never do that again. [...]

The Beara Peninsula: Secrets I Should Keep

The Beara Peninsula: Secrets I Should Keep

I shouldn't tell you any of this. If word gets out about how unbelievably cool the Beara Peninsula is, then everyone will go there. The roads will become clogged with buses and nervous tourists driving on the left for the first time, and I can't have that. I like the quiet of the Beara Peninsuala, how I can [...]

Strawberry Field Forever: My Love Affair with a Pancake Cottage

The affair began innocently enough. One evening, about a week ago, I was driving from Killarney back to Sneem via Moll's Gap when I decided to pull over and watch the sunset. Clouds rolled over the sandstone mountains, gathering color from the horizon and red earth. Two black lambs grazed next to their mother on the craggy hillside [...]

Uragh Stone Circle

Stone circles can be found across Ireland. They were built between 3,000 and 500 B.C. and were probably used for rituals or religious functions; no one really knows for sure. One thing is for certain - finding them usually requires a drive down a very narrow road (so narrow that if you meet a car, [...]

Portmagee Panorama

Portmagee Panorama

Isn't it about time you visited Ireland? Come on! Book that ticket. Rent a car. Circle the Iveragh Peninsula and summit the fog-covered mountains that fall into a sloping patchwork of green fields. Stop in Portmagee and order a pint at the Bridge Bar. Make a few new friends as traditional, Irish music pulses through [...]